Friday, April 13, 2012

Catch a wave, Catch the idea

     I've had quite the interesting past few months. I have, once again, veered off the beaten path and ventured down the road less traveled. It's not exactly "Virgin" territory. What sets this journey apart from others, is the speed as well as the vehicle. I'm traveling faster than others would like and my choice of transportation doesn't look like theirs either. I've never been to this [specific] destination before and folks can't fathom the fact that I'm doing it with out a map or G.P.S.. When you rely of modern technology so heavily, you tend to discount woodsman ship, and self reliant navigational skills. How are you going to get there? You need to get maps from  AAA or go to MapQuest Maps - Driving Directions - Map. When I hear this, I begin to ask "why" at least 5 times.  I don't want to follow Ponce de Leon. He is "so yesterday".
     There is a documentary titled, Riding Giants. It is a remarkable story of an entire culture that, while continually being told that they could not do ................ they continually proved all naysayers wrong and at the same time, they continued to exceed, even their own expectations.



Riding Giants

Take time to watch the Documentary. It will inspire you to put on a new pair of glasses. You will look at the world in a whole new light. Learning life lessons, while "living life" is so foreign to people who have embraced the earliest memories from kindergarten and cling to the idea that we study in a class room or read to learn. Yes you can, but it doesn't end there. The people in this documentary are the epitome of champions. They questioned, on their own. They refused to take no for an answer. They saw no limits or boundaries. They watched, they learned and they embraced change. They didn't write "how to" books, that would have slowed down forward momentum.
    In perspective, it's all about risk vs reward. Practical vs academia. Fact vs fiction. How it is vs how it REALLY is. Pure science vs applied science. How do people get roped in so deeply? Have you ever wondered why there are so many diet books? Diet books are a multi-million dollar per year business. Why do they make it harder than it has to be? It's simple math! If you take in more than you burn off, you will gain weight. Stick that in your corn "CARB" pipe, Mr.Atkins, and smoke it. Don't waste my time telling me about some stupid diet. Check your head! Why are you making it so hard? How did you get so bought in to this? "Intelligent" people continue to go down this road and it baffles me.
     Yes, there is a fine line when one out weighs the other. You have to decide when your forward momentum is being compromised. Out of context, an act of congress will cause you to miss the boat. Fools rush in. Go big or go home. You pick the catchy phrase that suits you best. Watch the documentary and start looking for the surfers. They look like skilled visionaries with one thing in common; while others were talking, they were doing. It may seem like it's all about surfing; if that's what you're thinking, you missed it completely. Shut 'er down and go get your diet book.

If Greg Knoll stays on the beach and buys into all the b.s., no one ever surfs Waimea Bay.

Waimea Bay - Surf Report and HD Surf Cam | SURFLINE.COM


If Jeff Clark never paddles out 45 minutes to the waves, Mavericks is just water.
  • If Laird Hamilton waits for the next "How to" book to come out, we miss the best of the best. 

    Laird Hamilton - The greatest big wave surfer to have lived? - YouTube

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Pw7vKtqpo Oct 26, 2006 - 3 min - Uploaded by benwaddamsLaird Hamilton compilation from the film 'Laird'. Please note: This is not my film. I have simply edited out my ...

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